5 Ways to be a Dark Academia Girl, Ethically

5 Ways to Be a Dark Academia Girl, Ethically

By Yashaswini Sharma

If you’re anything like me, you get a flutter in your stomach or a skip in your heartbeat every time you see the interior of the Bodleian Library, watch Dead Poets Society, or read The Secret History. There’s a nostalgic charm in the chequered skirts, the tweeds and overcoats, the beiges, deep reds, and navy blues. There also remains the truth that, very often, under the guise of community and/or aesthetics, we venture too far into overconsumption. 

Ergo, here are five ways you can continue to be a respectable member of the Dark Academia community without adding to the heap of fast-fashion overcoats and tote bags:

1. Shop mindfully and locally

It can be argued that most of the really niche, cool fashion these days comes from small, niche fashion brands. I’m not talking about the resellers on Depop, I’m talking about talented folks who make their own designs. Instagram, Etsy, and eBay are great ways to search for more sustainable brands. I recommend checking the brands you find this way on Good On You, which is a directory for rating clothing brands on several factors including price and sustainability.

2. Get creative with existing clothing

Who says you need the newest fashion in your closet to be considered Dark Academic or fashionable? My favourite thing to do when I feel like I don’t have anything to wear is layering, albeit it is difficult to do during summer. I wouldn’t recommend owning a capsule wardrobe if that’s not your vibe, but I would recommend mixing and matching; challenging yourself to get creative with your existing pieces by way of sewing, gluing, and layering is not old-fashioned, it’s unique. The outfits born out of effort and creativity are the ones that never go out of style.

3. Consider buying second-hand books

This one is a special tip because it makes for a more hardcore Dark Academic aesthetic. Imagine letting your fingers gently graze the spines of old books, books that have prior annotations in the margins, the ones that have love notes or dedications written by lovers for their lovers. I love buying books wherein previous owners have left their marks. It feels like being a part of humanity in its most intimate form.

4. Plan thrift dates with friends

Do you ever get bored of just getting coffee and hanging out with your friends? For most, probably not, but imagine adding a thrift spree to your calendars! While I’d say to be mindful about your consumption—even if it is second-hand—if you’re in need of a good quality Fisherman sweater or a wool blazer, or even a demure dress, chances are your local thrift store has the best options you might’ve never even considered. You can even turn it into a game; get together with your friends and challenge each other to find complete outfits within a set time frame to make the experience all the more enjoyable. 

5. Unplug from the x-cores, aesthetics, and trends

My last, and perhaps best, tip is to simply leave the conveyor belt trends in the past. No, you do not need the latest Mary Janes, bows, or Aritzia clothing. In fact, there will hardly come a time in life when these items are a necessity. It can be difficult to distance oneself from the zeitgeist, especially when everyone and their mums follow every new trend religiously, but believe this: there is a huge relief in taking a step back and re-learning that we do not need to be walking advertisements that display what side of TikTok we’re on. It is fine to just be humans who wear and re-wear their favourite pieces of clothing and jewellery. I spent years collecting the rings I have now; one of them I found on the road at the side of a bar in Paris, the other I bought from a lady in Florence and we communicated in broken Italian and English, the third I bought on the Charles Bridge in Prague. Every time I wear these rings, I carry with me stories of the people I interacted with and places I was in. Buying clothing from TikTok Shop to instantly satisfy yourself could never compare.

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